Avoid the Color Sale
I am still amazed that from time to time I will see an ad in the paper advertising a litter with 1 rare Chocolate Lab? If you find a breeder whose idea of qualifying you as an owner of one of their pups is asking what color you prefer…. RUN and RUN fast. When talking to a reputable breeder they are more interested in what type of life you will provide to their pup and the color of the pups most likely will no even be mentioned.

Ask Plenty of Questions
If someone is calling their self a breeder, they should be only be breeding to improve the breed. Now how are they going to improve the breed if they do not know it inside and out. Do your research ahead of time and make a list of questions. Ask about the labs history, traits, health issues etc… You will quickly find out if this is the type of breeder you can trust. For instance when getting our Lab our first question was “Why are your breeding Labs”? For this answer we got many I really love the breed. If you get this type of stock response dig deeper. Ask why do you want to breed though, you ca love the breed by simply having one? We knew we found we found the right breeder for us when the response was, “I feel that the Labs in the United States have over time lost the Sporting Ability. I am trying to improve a proven champion conformation line by installing champion field characteristics”. Now this is what we wanted to hear and obvisouly someone that understood the breed standard.

Be Prepared to Have Questions Asked
If you are offered a pup without any questions being asked about you and your lifestyle, do nottake it as a compliment that you seem like a great person, RUN… Yes you will most likely do a lot of running away when searching. Most breeders love the pups and want first most to know they are placed in a suitable environment. Be prepared to answer questions about who will care for the dog, where will the dog stay, what will you do for exercise etc… Also many will ask many personality type questions such as if you prefer the outdoors or indoors. This is to make sure the Lab is right for you. In many cases a breeder will turn away potential buyers they do not feel would do with a Lab added to their house.

Check on CERTs
This is so important and a must to do. Make sure that at least the parents have been Hip and Elbow certified. This helps reduce the chance that your pup will develop Hip Dysplasia or Elbow Dysplasia. Also see if the parents have Eye CERTS on their pedigrees. Labs have been known to be prone to Progressive Retinal Atrophy and breeding stock should have their eyes checked annually to ensure they have not developed thislate onset health problem that can be passed to the pups.

Decide What You Are Looking For
The most important thing to do is consider what you and your Lab will do together. Are you looking to join in confirmation competition? If so you will want to check the bloodlines and research the ancestry of the line to see what champions your puppy is coming from. Maybe you are looking for a hunting companion? In this case a review of the ancestry can show past field trial champions. Maybe you are just looking for a companion? In this case, the amount of show champions do not matter, focus on finding a healthy pup from a good line.

Although time consuming, these suggestions will greatly help you in finding the right Lab for you. The short time spent researching will lead to years of companionship that is unbelievable.

The Problem
Chewingitis A non-stop desire to have something in the mouth to chew on at all times, all hours of the day. In some cases this turns from a desire to pure need.

Ok so this is not really a disease but it sums up the Labs desire to chew. Out of all the different breeds I have been privileged to own none even come close with the desire to chew than a Lab pup. From stories being told of a Lab pulling up boards off a deck (true story) to my first hand experience with this chewing desire, it is a problem that needs controlled and controlled quickly otherwise your life will be turned upside down.

The Root of Chewingitis
In most cases the problem seems to stem from boredom. This is not to say that your Lab is not being stimulated, it just needs more. Labs are known and loved for their never-ending endurance. In the wrong situation this can quickly turn from a desired trait to a nightmare. The Labrador desires a lot of stimulation and if is not being provided, it will create some for itself. Do not try to accomplish this non-stop simulation yourself as you would most likely die of exhaustion within a few days. Instead try some of these great tricks for treating Chewingitis.

Teething
This will be your first experience with Chewingitis. During the teething stage, the puppy teeth are coming out and the adult teeth are coming in. This makes your pups mouth very sensitive and they are just like a baby with teeth coming in and need to chew on something. Whether that something is your shoe or a toy is up to you….

One of the best remedies I have found for this is ice cubes. I cannot even begin to think of the amount of ice we would go through when teething. The cold ice helps dull the pain all the while filling the pups mouth (this prevents it having your shoe in there).

After Teething
After the teething has stopped the Chewingitis does not regress. Often they have simply moved on from shoes to new items they can reach. Yes that means put those remote controls, credit cards, and any other valuable in an inaccessible place.

Why this desire is continued is still beyond me. All I know is it does not stop and lot soft work needs to be done to keep that pup happy.

A Tired Puppy Is A Happy Puppy
Plan on lots of walks and time to run and play. This helps get a lot of the pent up energy out and will make for a much more relaxing evening indoors for everyone. Plan on a brisk morning walk to start the day and an evening walk. The pup also needs a chance to stretch its legs by running off leash. If you have a back yard, you can try a variety of games. From fetch (hey, they are retrievers you know) to finding hidden items try to find items that stimulate both the mind and body of your Lab.

What to Chew
Do not even think about those soft plastic or stuffed toys offered at pet stores. This results in about 5 seconds of pure mayhem ended with a loss of $5.00. Kind of reminds one of a Tornado hitting a matchbox toy car…

One of the best toys I found is the Kong. These come in both a Red and Black color, get the black one. The Red is a softer rubber and will not last very long. Try stuffing the Kong with a variety of treats (our favorite is still to fill it with peanut butter and freeze it). The Kong not only gives your Lab puppy something to chew on but also provides mental stimulation as they try to figure out the quickest way to get the goodies out from inside.

Another great toy is a hard plastic treat ball. Make sure it is large enough for the Lab not to get its’ mouth around otherwise you will end up with another soft plastic toy tornado. Lets face it, Labs love to eat and this treat ball is the perfect stimulation for the eater. They push the ball, push the ball and finally a treat is dispensed. Another great mind stimulation toy.

Is Chewingitis Curable?
Of course… Usually a Labrador Retriever will reach maturity between the ages of 1 and 2 years. During this time they will finish finishing their bodies out and slow down on the chewing. They become much calmer and controlled but will still need lots of time to play. Of course the playtime so fun with a Lab this is never a problem as you both will have years of enjoyment with each other.

Elbow Dysplasia
Elbow Dysplasia is a term that is actually used for several distinct, inherited elbow abnormalities. A few of these abnormalities include osteochondrosis dessicans, and and ununited anconeal process. The various abnormalities have a higher instance in males due to the larger size.

Most believe the main factor in the development of Elbow Dysplasia in dogs in heredity. Environmental factors such as obesity, excessive calcium intake and exercise can also attribute to this health problem. This is why it is so important to choose a reputable breeder when choosing a Labrador. Make sure that both parents have been certified to have no problems. You can review tests of a dogs heritage on its’ pedigree and the OFA is responsible for keeping a registry of dogs certified. Of Labradors over the age of 2 years old, 12% of Labs have been rated dysphasic.

Elbow Dysplasia can usually be detected by the use of an x-ray of the forelegs. In cases that can not be detected by an x-ray a cat scan will be used. Typically symptoms of Elbow Dyslasia begin to show at an early age, usually between 6 and 12 months of age. Although not as common, there have also been cases documented of late onset Elbow Dysplasia in senior dogs. The first sign is usually mild lameness in the front legs and is typically heightened after strenuous exercise.

There are various ways to treat Elbow Dysplasia including surgery, glucosamine food supplements and pain medication. The best results are seen when the Elbow Dysplasia is detected early. Of the dogs diagnosed, only slightly more than half will successfully be treated.

Hip Dysplasia
Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) results from poor development of the hip joint and affects dogs of many different breeds. It is inherited, but because of the polygenic (”multiple genes”) mode of inheritance it has proven to be difficult to eradicate. For example, it is possible for two dogs with “good” hips to produce a puppy with CHD. Additionally, environmental factors, such as trauma or excessive growth, can contribute to the problem.
The severity of CHD can vary from mild with no symptoms to severe and crippling arthritis. The first signs generally appear before a dog’s first birthday and may only appear as a slight irregularity in gait. Young, affected dogs can improve somewhat as they mature and develop a stronger musculature, but even these dogs will develop arthritis later in life.
Diagnosis can be made by x-ray as early as 4 or 5 months of age, although at this age there is a small chance of error. All dogs intended for breeding should be x-rayed once they have matured, but before being bred for the first time. Twenty-four months of age is considered the minimum age for an accurate determination and for certification by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). Bitches should not be x-rayed within about four weeks before or after her heat cycle because the additional hormones circulating in her system at this time may cause a false positive reading.
X-rays sent to the OFA will be examined by three veterinary radiologists who will determine whether or not the dog is dysplastic and will also assign a rating. Non-dysplastic hips will receive a rating of Excellent, Good, or Fair. Dysplastic hips will receive a rating of Mild, Moderate, or Severe. There is also a Borderline rating and the OFA will usually request an additional x-ray be taken about 6 months later. Arthritic changes over this time period will help determine whether the dog is actually dysplastic.
Costs for the x-ray and anesthesia run about $150 to $200. Evaluation by the OFA is currently $25 for a preliminary evaluation (before 24 months of age) and $30 for certification (after 24 months of age). There are discounts available if hip and elbow x-rays are submitted together or if several dogs are evaluated at the same time.
Between January 1974 and December 2001 there were 134,979 Labs evaluated by the OFA. Of these dogs, 16.1 percent were graded Excellent, while 13 percent were graded as dysplastic. Although the Lab is ranked as the most popular breed in the United States, it was ranked 67th in the number of dysplastic dogs. Breeders are slowly making headway toward eradicating this problem. Before 1980 only 10.4 percent were rated as excellent, but for dogs born in 1994/95 16.6 percent were rated excellent for an increase of 59.6 percent. During the same time period dysplastic dogs declined from 14.5 percent to 11.7 percent for a decrease of 19.3 percent.
Breeding only unaffected dogs probably accounts for the majority of the improvement. The OFA believes that environmental factors and high caloric intake do not cause CHD and that high doses of vitamin C won’t reduce or prevent CHD. However it is wise to do everything possible to prevent CHD, therefore we recommend the following: Only breed unaffected dogs and only buy puppies from unaffected parents. Line the whelping box with carpeting or towels instead of newspapers to provide better traction. Prevent excessive jumping (e.g. into the back of a pickup) or forced exercise (e.g. roadwork) until the dog is mature (at least 24 months). Keep dogs on the lean side, instead of obese. Provide a good quality diet.
Can high doses of vitamin C help a dysplastic dog? Read an article by Larry Mueller, Editor of Hunting Dogs, for his experiences.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and other eye problems
Labs are also at risk for several eye problems including: PRA, cataracts, and retinal dysplasia.
PRA is a progressive deterioration of the light-receptive area (retina) of the eye, and may result in complete blindness. Symptoms are subtle, often starting with night blindness and eye dilation. Typically the age of onset is between four to six years which makes it difficult to identify carriers and remove them from the breeding pool.
This disease is believed to be caused by a simple recessive gene. For the dog to be affected he must have two copies of this recessive gene. A dog that has only one copy of the gene is a carrier and will show no clinical symptoms, but can pass the recessive gene on to his descendants.
Cataracts are relatively common in dogs. Most are hereditary, however haziness or cloudiness in the eyes of an older dog is often not caused by cataracts. Some cataracts are stable while others may progress in severity. Surgery can often help dogs with severely impaired vision.
Retinal dysplasia (RD) or “folds” is inherited with dwarfism. In mild cases, sight is only slightly affected. In severe cases the dog may be blind and have skeletal abnormalities. Because RD may disappear with age, it is important to have puppies checked by a board-certified ophthalmologist, preferable between eight to ten weeks of age. At this time, folds are more easily detected. As the puppy grows the folds may straighten out and become almost impossible to diagnose. Dogs with any type of RD should not be bred because they probably also carry the gene for dwarfism. Additionally one of that dog’s parents is also probably a carrier for dwarfism.
All breeding stock should be examined annually by a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist who has the special equipment and training needed to properly examine the dog’s eyes. This exam is painless. The results can then be submitted to Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF).

Dwarfism
In Labradors, dwarfism has been linked with retinal dysplasia or “folds.” These problems seem to be more common in dogs with American field trial breeding.
A dog that received two copies of the gene for retinal dysplasia will probably go blind and will develop abnormally. Generally the legs will bow outward, giving a bulldog-type appearance with short legs and a disproportionately large head. Any dog with these symptoms should never be bred. Additionally the dog’s parents and most, if not all, of his siblings, should not be bred because they are carriers of the gene even though they may not show any outward signs of it.
Another form of dwarfism may be caused by an abnormality of the pituitary gland. The pituitary gland secretes a growth hormone, and if this hormone is decreased or absent the dog will not develop properly. Unlike chondrodystrophic (skeletal) dwarfs, these dogs remain proportionate, just smaller than average. Generally an owner will notice the dog failing to grow around eight to twelve weeks of age. Other signs might include: a soft, wooly coat, hyperpigmentation (darkening) of the skin, gradual alopecia (hair loss), and little, if any, sexual development. These animals may be helped with injections of growth hormones over several months, thyroid supplementation and/or cortisone replacement. Check with your vet for the best treatment of your dog. In additional, all dogs with this condition should be neutered.

Muscle Myopathy
This rare condition is known by several names, including muscle myopathy, muscular dystrophy, myotonia, generalized muscle weakness, and polyneuropathy. First diagnosed in 1976, this condition is characterized by a marked deficiency of skeletal muscle mass, abnormal posture, and a stiff hopping gait.
The first signs of this condition are generally seen in puppies between three and six months of age. They may seem reluctant to play as much as their littermates and may become tired more easily. More advanced symptoms include pronounced muscle wasting (particularly in the head, shoulders and hips), a short, stilted stride and “bunny hopping” with their rear legs, an arched back and low head posture, and a lanky appearance. Symptoms often seem worse with more exercise or exposure to cold weather, even to the point of collapse. The dog will often get worse over the course of six months to a year and then most dogs stabilize or even improve slightly.
Diagnosis can be difficult, particularly in mildly affected dogs, and may require a muscle biopsy. Unfortunately there is currently no method to determine genetic carriers.
There is no treatment, except for rest. Some dogs may respond to Diazepam or steroids. Dogs with muscle myopathy may make an acceptable house pet with a normal life span, however they are very sensitive to stress and cold.
This condition is inherited as an autosomal recessive gene, meaning both parents carry the gene even if they don’t show any symptoms. All offspring of an affected dog will carry at least one copy of the gene. Until a genetic test is developed, prevention consists of never breeding a dog that has any offspring with muscle myopathy. Offspring and siblings of these dogs may also be carriers.

Megaesophagus
Megaesophagus is so-named because of the enlargement of the esophagus caused by the loss of peristaltic function. (Peristalsis is the process of muscular contractions that move food through the esophagus.) Dogs with megaesophagus will usually regurgitate their food soon after eating. It is often seen in young puppies, but may develop later in life. Other signs include labored breathing (possibly aspiration pneumonia), fever, lethargy, and nasal discharge. Some dogs may outgrow this condition, while there is no improvement in other dogs.
To confirm the diagnosis, your veterinarian may decide to take chest x-rays, run blood tests, and run a urinalysis. Although there is no specific treatment for megaesophagus, your veterinarian may be able to identify an underlying cause and provide supportive care. Feeding small, frequent, high-caloric meals from an elevated stand may also help.
In Labs, the condition appears to be genetic, however the mode of inheritance is still unknown. In some breeds it is caused by a recessive gene and in other breeds it is caused by a dominant gene. Until more is known about this condition, it is safest to avoid breeding any affected dogs, their parents and their siblings.

Hypothyroidism
Hypothyroidism occurs when the thyroid gland does not secrete enough of the thyroid hormone called thyroxine (T4). T4 plays a major role in controlling metabolism and is necessary for growth. The other main thyroid hormone is called triiodothyronine (T3). Both T3 and T4 circulate through the bloodstream and are regulated by the thyroid stimulating hormone (TSH).
The most common cause of hypothyroidism is autoimmune thyroiditis. This occurs when the body makes antibodies against the thyroid gland which gradually destroys the gland and decreases its ability to secrete T4.
Because T4 affects many internal organs a deficiency can manifest with varied symptoms. Some possible symptoms include obesity, lethargy, mental dullness, hair loss, hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin), mood swings, facial paralysis, and disorientation. Other possible symptoms include diarrhea, constipation, vomiting, abnormal heat cycles, lowered body temperature and even heart problems. One study found that the majority of dogs with hypothyroidism had some kind of skin abnormality, however some dogs may not have any symptoms.
The disease can occur at any age, but tends to affect dogs starting at two to five years of age. Dogs may appear normal for years, only to become hypothyroid at a later date.
Some of the tests to determine hypothyroidism include a blood test, a skin biopsy, TSH test, or a thyroid biopsy. The blood test is most commonly used, however other factors may also cause a decrease in the production of T4. These factors include using medications such as cortisone, valium, and anticonvulsants, and diseases such as Cushing’s disease, diabetes, chronic renal failure and liver disease. A skin biopsy, by itself, probably wouldn’t be conclusive evidence of hypothyroidism. The TSH test was considered quite reliable, but it can be expensive and difficult to find TSH. The thyroid biopsy is rarely used because is so invasive. Sometimes the only way to determine hypothyroidism is to administer the treatment for several months and note the results.
Treatment consists of correcting any underlying problems and, perhaps, administering a synthetic thyroid hormone. Generally a change in attitude and energy level is seen very quickly, however skin changes and hair regrowth may take several months. Dogs usually remain on this hormone for life, but the hormone level should be checked every six to 12 months to adjust the dosage amount.
Because there appears to be a genetic predisposition to hypothyroidism, breeding stock should be tested annually starting at sexual maturity. After about four years of age the dog can be tested every other year.
Of the 119 test results submitted to the OFA for Labradors between 1974 and 2002, 79 percent tested normal.
If you’re thinking about buying a Lab puppy, be sure to check with the breeder about the possibilities of these problems in their puppies. At the very least you should insist that both parents have hip and eye clearances.
The information given here is to help you learn more about your dog and not to replace your veterinarian’s advice.

The first item most think about in regards to the color of the coat is which color they prefer. This should be a minimal consideration in choosing your Lab as heritage and health should always be the first consideration. It is still not hard to wonder though if the color of the Lab has anything to do with it’s trainability and personality.

The Easy Answer
The easy answer to age old question of color would be that it simply does not matter in regards to anything other than appearance. With this opinion we can attribute the Labs ability to its’ bloodline, and environmental factors such as training, upbringing etc… Many tend to believe this and it is a very possible that whether Chocolate, Black or Yellow a Lab is a Lab!

Digging Deeper
What if we dig a little deeper and look at the genetic make-up of the breed. The black coat color is the dominant gene. Could this in turn lead us to believe that possibly this pigment could also lead to a dominant black dog? Of course not, but what it does lead to is a numerical amount of the Labrador Retriever breed that excels in both confirmation and field sports being black. Of course this domination numerically can also be attributed to the many more black in color.

A more meaningful relationship would be to look at the percentage. By doing this we could say that 80% of Yellow Labs are easily trained for field work while only 75% of black Labs are standouts. Of course these are just some random numbers I have thrown out for illustration purpose. The real question is how could one tell what entails “Easily Trained”? Could this be accomplished by taking a Black and Yellow pup and comparing them? It would not be that easy. How about a yellow, black and chocolate Labrador that are litter mates and trained and judged by the same person. Basically the same heritage, same training and upbringing and same judge. This would not even be a good indicator, for several reasons. It would require a large sampling and a very controlled environment for any type of conclusion like this to be drawn and to my knowledge, nothing like has ever been conducted.

So What Color to Choose?
All the thinking and researching in the world will eventually lead us all to the same conclusion, color does not matter. What does matter is that you have a healthy pup that will become your best friend and you will share years of joys and triumphs with, regardless of the color.

Don’t pet a dog, even your own, without letting him or her see and sniff you first.

Never turn your back to a dog and run away.  A dog’s natural instinct is to chase and catch fleeing prey.

Do not disturb a dog while he is sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy or caring for puppies.

Be cautious around strange dogs.  Always assume that a dog who doesn’t know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.

If you think a dog may attack, you should:

Never scream and run.  Remain motionless, hands at your sides, and avoid eye contact with the dog.

If the dog does attack, “feed” him or her your jacket, purse, or anything that you can put between yourself and the dog.

If you fall or are knocked to the ground, curl into a ball with your hands over your ears and remain motionless.  Try not to scream or roll around.

What is? Reinforcing good behavior with praise works better than punishment to correct problem behavior such as inappropriate chewing and digging.  Not only does this work better, it keeps your puppy happier as well.
Some possible solutions…Chew Toys.  Since your puppy is going to have the desire to chew give or make available appropriate things to chew on.  Begin with a variety of puppy chew toys.  Start out with a variety of chew toys. This will help you to determine which type of toy your puppy prefers. Rotate different toys to help keep puppy interested and always reward puppy when he/she chews their toys.  Make sure you select distinctive looking toys that are not visually similar to household items that you don’t want chewed.  Also, there are commercial anti chew sprays available on the market that you might try.

Sometimes dogs just dig for the fun of it,  but there are other reasons like he may want to cool off on a hot day, bury and retrieve bones, escape confinement or to chase rodents.  Chewing and digging or any destructive behavior could also be a direct response to anxiety.

Digging often occurs when pets have insufficient stimulation.  Providing chew toys and increased play and exercise may help curtail this behavior.  Some methods of discouraging digging are: changing or covering the surface by placing rocks or covering with concrete.  Remote punishment may also work. Examples would be while you see your dog digging, turn on a sprinkler, or pull on an extended leash.  With love and patience this problem can be resolved.

The exact cause of Hip Dysplasia is believed to be attributed to heredity but because of the multiple genes involved it is difficult to prove. This means it is possible for two parents with good hips to have pups with Hip Dysplasia. Environmental factors also can attribute to hip problems in dogs. Hip Dysplasia involves an abnormality of the hip and can vary from mild discomfort to severe crippling.

Typically symptoms of Hip Dysplasia begin to show at an early age, usually between 6 and 12 months of age. Although not as common, there have also been cases documented of late onset Hip Dysplasia in senior dogs. The first sign is usually mild discomfort shown in the hind legs and is typically heightened after strenuous exercise.

A dog can be tested as early as 4 months of age although testing at this age increases the chance of misdiagnosis. The exam is typically done with an x-ray but a cat scan can also be used if the x-ray does not produce accurate results. All Labs that are being considered for breeding should have this test completed to ensure they do not pass problems onto pups. A test should also be completed at 24 months because at this age an accurate reading can be determined.

The OFA is responsible for keeping a registry of tested dogs. When tested if a dog shows problems it will be assigned as Dysplasic and show the rating Mild, Moderate, or Severe. If the dog passes, it will be assigned as Non-dysplasic and assigned an Excellent, Good, or Fair. The cost of this testing is small ($150 – $200) compared to the thousands that is required if Dysplasic pups are born because of lack of testing. Of Labs that have been tested 13% have tested Dysplasic.

The best way to control this health issue is by only breeding Non-dysplasic. This starts with the breeder being responsible and wanting to improve the breed and also involves the buyer being informed enough to not purchase dogs that have not been tested.

Conformation Training
If you are planning on showing your Lab in the confirmation ring it is standard for the dog to heel to the left side of the handler.

Hunting and Field Trials
There are no set rules as to which side the Lab should heel. This usually depends a lot upon the hunter and Labs preference. The vast majority is taught to heel on the left. The reason for this is most owners are right handed and carry the stock of the rifle in the right hand freeing the left hand to be free for hand signals.

Before starting to train consider these few safety concerns. If you are right handed and carry the stock of the rifle in your right hand then the barrel will pointed to the left where you are training the lab to heel. Obviously this is not an ideal situation and I would consider teaching the Lab to heel to your strong side.

Everyday Pets
If your Lab is simply your household pet it will not matter which side they heel. The most important thing to consider in this situation is comfort and ease of training. If your Lab prefers the right side of you, then do not try to fix what is not broken and begin training from this side.

Tendency to Heel Left
Most Labs and dogs in general have a tendency to heel to the left side of their owner. The reason for this is unknown but many believe can be traced back to dogs being used in protection work. Since most attackers would be right handed, a dog coming from an owners left would be in direct line with the potential hit to the attacker. Some believe these traits have been somehow passed through the generations, but we will that for another discussion.